Hi anon! I wrote a post on materials here which you’ve probably already seen but which I’ll link anyway just for good measure.
I’ve used twill for all of my white sailor uniforms and they don’t end up being see-through at all, actually! My Mako top is made out of a white twill I ordered from Mood Fabrics and my Ibuki top is made from twill I bought at Jo-Ann and you can see that they’re both totally opaque. If you’re worried about it being too heavy (which it won’t, honestly, I was super comfy wearing Mako in 90 degree weather with 60% humidity during AX) you can also go for poplin which is lighter than twill but has a tighter weave than Kona cotton or broadcloth. I make my blouses out of poplin and have had no problems with transparency there either.
Though for extra comfort and sweat protection, I wear a cotton tank top underneath all my uniform tops. Mine are the Xhileration brand from Target, they’re super comfy and Target was having a pretty good deal on them last time I was there (2 for $14?). This will help eliminate any transparency issues you might have just in case you get wet or something. Plus it’s common practice in Japan to wear an undershirt with sailor fukus, so if you’re an accuracy nut then you can feel good about having accurate undergarments too!
Hope that answers your question. Good luck making your uniform!
IDK yet! I think I’ll probably just bring my Mako (KLK) costume since it’s the comfiest one I have and change into normal clothes halfway through the day… I could bring my Micchy costume but I think I might actually get strangled if I do that.
This post is like a week late but I’m finally done grieving over AX so I can make a post about it now! By the way, I didn’t die at AX.
AX had its good parts and bad parts but this year ended up kind of disappointing for me because I was in line for autographs almost the entire time and didn’t get half the ones I wanted. Oops! Don’t spend an entire con in line unless you have premium (even if you have premium) or else you’ll probably end up regretting it afterwards.
I didn’t take any real photos this year (because I was in line the whole time, oops) so here are some really. really bad Instagram photos of my Mako and Satsuki costumes. I made these the day before the con so they need mega fixing but I’ll hopefully have actual pics of them sometime this summer. (oh, and my eye didn’t implode from having makeup/contacts in!)
The next event I’ll be attending is J-Pop Summit! Come say hi to me if you see me!
Hi anon! Thanks so much for the compliments.
Are you drafting your own patterns from scratch? I’m guessing the reason your patterns end up being too small is because you’re using your measurements straight off instead of accounting for 2 things: thickness of fabric and ease of movement. The thickness of your fabric will only matter if you’re making something very close fitting with many layers, like a Victorian bodice, so this won’t be a problem with a sailor fuku.
Ease is added to patterns because you need extra space to be able to move your body naturally without popping the seams. A pattern without ease that is made to your measurements is called a sloper, which you can find instructions for drafting here: http://www.madalynne.com/how-to-draft-a-front-bodice-sloper-update (There are other tutorials on Google but this was the first link I found.) If you’re drafting the entire bodice pattern by yourself then definitely start with this as a guide to figure out where to place everything.
The ease added to a pattern will depend on the look you’re going for, but I would add at least 1” to your bust measurement and 1.5” to your waist measurement for a sailor fuku top because it’s not a super fitted design, then let it in/out as needed. If that doesn’t work out, try picking out a comfortable semi-fitted blouse that you own and measuring how wide it is around the bust and waist points. Then use those measurements to draft your pattern instead of your body measurements. Also, don’t forget to add seam allowance to your patterns! If you don’t, you’re taking in anywhere from 3/4” to 1 1/2” from the circumference and that makes a huge difference.
I hope that answers your question, but if you’re still confused then please send me another message!
Hi anon! Sorry for taking so long to answer this. I haven’t had the time to take out a wig and cut it down for photos so hopefully a text explanation will help for now.
The base wig I used is Epic Cosplay’s Aether in black: http://www.epiccosplay.com/neat-trimmed-black-cosplay-wig.html
Basically what I did is put the wig on my head (with my hair under a wig cap and everything) and clipped aside the hair i wanted to save for the side fringes, then took my shears and cut straight across horizontally about 1/2” longer than where the bangs should sit. Then I take my wig and put it on a wig head and cut the bangs to the proper length holding my shears vertically in order to have a more natural looking edge. If you look up wig cutting tutorials on Google, there should be images showing you how to hold your shears properly.
The back on the Aether is also a bit too long so I trimmed it down an inch or so as well, but that’s basically all I did to my base wig. If you’re still having problems, feel free to message me again!
I met the bae at AX
Today I made a thing. Also my room is a mess. (I made the pants too but my dressform doesn’t like to wear them. still need to make the pockets too)
After getting sick and having multiple material failures over 3 costumes, I’m glad I have something new to wear to AX..?! I’ll be wearing a few old costumes and hopefully another new one if I can get it done tonight so say hi to me if you see me!
Also, I’ll be at AX from tomorrow till Sunday so if you send me an ask there’s a small chance I won’t reply until next Monday. Have a nice week everyone!
Still need to finish the insides and hand sew a ton of snaps on and make the actual tie but I finished Ibuki’s top… (=ﾟωﾟ)ﾉ It doesn’t want to sit properly on the dress form but it looks fine when I wear it.
The symbols were vectored and machine embroidered by octolife !!
(my eye infection is slowly healing but I didn’t want to drop all of my costumes for AX because I can’t put makeup on one eye.. so if you see me wearing a med patch in any of my costumes, I’m not just being a chuuni. promise!!)
I received an ask from @kpoke regarding how to draft a collar and facing for a sailor uniform so I made some quick sketches on how to draft your own. (btw it’s 1:40AM right now so sorry for the really bad drawings lol…)
This method works for any type of bodice you want to add the collar to, so you can use this on a dress or a blouse if you wanted to. For more details, read below:
Preferably, you’ll need to have already fitted your bodice by making a muslin. Take the 3 following measurements: 1) original collar to new stopping point on the CF line, 2) collar width, 3) back collar length. (marked in the above photos)
1) depends on your design, since some uniforms have deeper collars than others (ex. Haruhi),
2) is usually the length from collar to shoulder minus around 1.5cm, and
3) is usually the distance down to the middle of the shoulder blades, or around the under arm point.
Draw in or remove all seam allowances from your bodice pattern pieces (this is usually 5/8” on commercial patterns, if you’re using one). These are your stitching lines and what we want to use to draft the collar and facing.
On the CF line of your front bodice piece (this might be the cut on fold line), measure down from the neck line the measurement you took for (1). Using a curved ruler or freehand, draw a slightly curved line from the point where the collar meets the shoulder to the point you just measured. The neck line should hit the base of the neck on the back piece of the bodice, if it’s too low then raise it to that point. Otherwise, leave the back piece alone. This is your new neck line. Cut it out of your muslin and try it back on to see if it fits. You should be able to slip your head in and out of it with no problem.
After that, tape the two pattern pieces together at the shoulder stitching lines (see photo above). Trace the neck line out on a piece of paper. Following the CB line (the cut on fold line of your back bodice), measure down (3) and trace out that line. On the shoulder line, measure out (2) and mark that point. Using these measurements as a guide, draw out the collar shape you want. What I usually do is cut out the neck hole and pin the paper to my dress form (you can pin it to your shirt too or just hold it up to your body) and draw in the shape I want with a pen, then take it off and smooth it out with a ruler afterwards.
For the facing, measure in 1.5”~2” (width is personal preference really) from the neck line of your pattern pieces and mark. You can curve the point at the bottom or square it off if you want. That’s it!
Oh, and you’ll have to add seam allowances back to the pattern pieces you drafted. Pick a seam allowance you’re comfortable with sewing (5/8” or something else). Add this SA to all necklines on each pattern piece (this includes the bodice pieces, since you drafted the neckline!), as well as the shoulder lines for both facing pieces. For the outer edges of the collar, I usually add 1/4” SA because that’s the width of my presser foot but you can add whatever you’re comfortable with sewing. Don’t add anything to the CF or CB lines, these will be your cut on fold lines.
Hopefully this helps! If anything’s confusing, please send me an ask and I’ll try to reply as soon as possible. I’ll be putting this info in my tutorial later too.
(btw, the updated school uniform tutorial will be delayed until after AX…sorry T_T I got an eye infection so I’m most likely dropping all of my uniforms for AX and doing eyepatch cosplays instead, which means I won’t be able to take any construction photos. If you need urgent help before AX then feel free to message me too!)
Hi! Sorry, I don’t know of any, since I only use Japanese patterns. Since a sailor fuku is lit. a sailor outfit, you could try either looking for a sailor costume pattern (these would be under the costuming section of the pattern catalogs they have at JoAnn) or a basic bodice pattern with a bust and waist dart such as McCall’s M6355, and then modifying the neckline and sleeves and drafting your own collar. If your uniform has princess lines, it’s easy to modify a pattern with darts to have princess seams instead.
That’s not much help but you can link me to any pattern you find if you want more advice! I’ll be updating my tutorial soon too so hopefully that can help.