sailor fuku tutorial: how to draft the top pattern (temp post)
I really like your serafuku tutorial! I feel dumb for saying this, but how do I turn the drawings onscreen into an actual drafted pattern in my size? I’ve only worked with store-bought patterns that needed very little adjusting.
(I’m posting this as a text post because it’s super long lol. Sorry!)
Hi! Sorry for the super late response. I’ll be writing another post on this topic sometime with photos, but here’s a text dump w/ some crappy drawings for now. It’s super dense but I hope it helps!
(Also, for anyone who uses this tutorial to draft a pattern, please give me feedback if you find anything confusing or if you see any errors! :) I’m writing this at 3am so there might be mistakes or weird explanations I’m not catching. I’ll take everything into account when I write my actual post!)
also haha that post came off as being way too serious. Sorry! Now I have a question for anyone who’s following me for the tutorials I post (question at the bottom):
I don’t have a good camera (the only camera I have is the one on my phone) and my sleep schedule is seriously messed up so I’m usually not awake during the times I have good enough lighting to take pictures that aren’t totally awful. (and yes, this is why I haven’t updated my sailor fuku tutorial yet after promising to for months)
Hand illustrations are way easier for me to make because I can draw at any time, but they might not show what’s going on IRL as well as just taking photos, even if they’ll end up really yellow and grainy. Any input would be appreciated!
Are the hand illustrations I make for tutorials helpful, or would it be better/more helpful to take actual photos showing the drafting/sewing process?
Hi everyone! Thanks for reading this blog, whether you’re a follower or not. I’d like to make a small PSA regarding asks since I’ve had a lot of problems with Tumblr’s messaging system and I want to make sure everyone who asks me for help gets the help they want.
First of all, I made a FAQ page about a month ago which some of you might have noticed from the link in my sidebar. It has more specific information on what I need if you’re sending me a specific question regarding a cosplay you want to make for yourself or a friend. (i.e. “I need help figuring out how much fabric to buy”, “I want help drafting a pattern for my costume”, etc.) Please read it and make sure you’re willing to give me the information I need before sending me a question!
General questions (i.e. “How would you go about making _____”, “Is it possible to make this sort of pattern modification”, etc.) will always be answered publicly.
I check my dash about once or twice a day. That means sometimes it’ll take me up to 12 or more hours to respond to an ask. If I don’t reply for over a day, it’ll either be because I’m planning to make a tutorial for the topic OR my reply didn’t go through OR because I didn’t get your message in the first place. I will usually make a PSA if I’m planning to make a tutorial. If you think it’s either of the latter two, please resend your message.
If you need urgent cosplay help (like the con’s in a few days) or you don’t want to risk your ask not getting through, go ahead and send me an email at qnngcos[at]gmail[dot]com and I’ll reply ASAP since I check email a lot more often than Tumblr.
If you get a reply from a Tumblr user ishizan, that’s my blank main that I run this secondary account off of. Apparently mobile has been sending my replies through that account, so I’ve been trying to reply on computer only, but just a heads up if it happens!
Thanks for reading this post if you made it through. I love talking about cosplay and sewing so I always make myself as open as possible to answering questions, but I’ve been having a big problem with people not following through on “urgent” asks and I don’t know if it’s a problem on Tumblr’s end or their end. I thought I’d make my ask policy clear here for anyone who wants to send me a question in the near future.
Hi anon! I wrote a post on materials here which you’ve probably already seen but which I’ll link anyway just for good measure.
I’ve used twill for all of my white sailor uniforms and they don’t end up being see-through at all, actually! My Mako top is made out of a white twill I ordered from Mood Fabrics and my Ibuki top is made from twill I bought at Jo-Ann and you can see that they’re both totally opaque. If you’re worried about it being too heavy (which it won’t, honestly, I was super comfy wearing Mako in 90 degree weather with 60% humidity during AX) you can also go for poplin which is lighter than twill but has a tighter weave than Kona cotton or broadcloth. I make my blouses out of poplin and have had no problems with transparency there either.
Though for extra comfort and sweat protection, I wear a cotton tank top underneath all my uniform tops. Mine are the Xhileration brand from Target, they’re super comfy and Target was having a pretty good deal on them last time I was there (2 for $14?). This will help eliminate any transparency issues you might have just in case you get wet or something. Plus it’s common practice in Japan to wear an undershirt with sailor fukus, so if you’re an accuracy nut then you can feel good about having accurate undergarments too!
Hope that answers your question. Good luck making your uniform!
IDK yet! I think I’ll probably just bring my Mako (KLK) costume since it’s the comfiest one I have and change into normal clothes halfway through the day… I could bring my Micchy costume but I think I might actually get strangled if I do that.
This post is like a week late but I’m finally done grieving over AX so I can make a post about it now! By the way, I didn’t die at AX.
AX had its good parts and bad parts but this year ended up kind of disappointing for me because I was in line for autographs almost the entire time and didn’t get half the ones I wanted. Oops! Don’t spend an entire con in line unless you have premium (even if you have premium) or else you’ll probably end up regretting it afterwards.
I didn’t take any real photos this year (because I was in line the whole time, oops) so here are some really. really bad Instagram photos of my Mako and Satsuki costumes. I made these the day before the con so they need mega fixing but I’ll hopefully have actual pics of them sometime this summer. (oh, and my eye didn’t implode from having makeup/contacts in!)
The next event I’ll be attending is J-Pop Summit! Come say hi to me if you see me!
Hi anon! Thanks so much for the compliments.
Are you drafting your own patterns from scratch? I’m guessing the reason your patterns end up being too small is because you’re using your measurements straight off instead of accounting for 2 things: thickness of fabric and ease of movement. The thickness of your fabric will only matter if you’re making something very close fitting with many layers, like a Victorian bodice, so this won’t be a problem with a sailor fuku.
Ease is added to patterns because you need extra space to be able to move your body naturally without popping the seams. A pattern without ease that is made to your measurements is called a sloper, which you can find instructions for drafting here: http://www.madalynne.com/how-to-draft-a-front-bodice-sloper-update (There are other tutorials on Google but this was the first link I found.) If you’re drafting the entire bodice pattern by yourself then definitely start with this as a guide to figure out where to place everything.
The ease added to a pattern will depend on the look you’re going for, but I would add at least 1” to your bust measurement and 1.5” to your waist measurement for a sailor fuku top because it’s not a super fitted design, then let it in/out as needed. If that doesn’t work out, try picking out a comfortable semi-fitted blouse that you own and measuring how wide it is around the bust and waist points. Then use those measurements to draft your pattern instead of your body measurements. Also, don’t forget to add seam allowance to your patterns! If you don’t, you’re taking in anywhere from 3/4” to 1 1/2” from the circumference and that makes a huge difference.
I hope that answers your question, but if you’re still confused then please send me another message!
Hi anon! Sorry for taking so long to answer this. I haven’t had the time to take out a wig and cut it down for photos so hopefully a text explanation will help for now.
The base wig I used is Epic Cosplay’s Aether in black: http://www.epiccosplay.com/neat-trimmed-black-cosplay-wig.html
Basically what I did is put the wig on my head (with my hair under a wig cap and everything) and clipped aside the hair i wanted to save for the side fringes, then took my shears and cut straight across horizontally about 1/2” longer than where the bangs should sit. Then I take my wig and put it on a wig head and cut the bangs to the proper length holding my shears vertically in order to have a more natural looking edge. If you look up wig cutting tutorials on Google, there should be images showing you how to hold your shears properly.
The back on the Aether is also a bit too long so I trimmed it down an inch or so as well, but that’s basically all I did to my base wig. If you’re still having problems, feel free to message me again!
I met the bae at AX
Today I made a thing. Also my room is a mess. (I made the pants too but my dressform doesn’t like to wear them. still need to make the pockets too)
After getting sick and having multiple material failures over 3 costumes, I’m glad I have something new to wear to AX..?! I’ll be wearing a few old costumes and hopefully another new one if I can get it done tonight so say hi to me if you see me!
Also, I’ll be at AX from tomorrow till Sunday so if you send me an ask there’s a small chance I won’t reply until next Monday. Have a nice week everyone!