I finished Junketsu last night! Still need to make the boot covers and armband thing because I spent most of last night studying for my final instead, oops.

Bias tape is made from blue twill, eyes/scarf from a bunch of random stash satins I had, and epaulettes are made from thick craft foam covered with gold crepeback satin and upholstery trim glued to the edges.

I accidentally told my friend I’d do a KLK photoshoot with him (which he’s been looking forward to since, um, AX) at Yaoicon so I’ve been busting ass this week working on Junketsu. This is my prototype version (used some stash fabric instead of the one I had in mond) so the insides are pretty awful. I’ll be making my real version for Anime Matsuri next year based on what I learned this time around!

The base fabric is a white twill from Mood Fabrics and the design is crepe back satin from Jo-Ann, held on with a Wonder Under backing.

Thoughts:
- Crepeback satin applique sucks because it stretches out like crazy when you iron it and leaves residue if you have to peel it off due to a mistake (which I did twice) but looks pretty awesome in photos. Still looking for the perfect gold vinyl to use for the final ver.
- Keep a seam gauge around constantly because otherwise your lines will come out uneven and you will cry.
- You can’t peel off applique and have the edges look perfect afterwards but you can still iron it back on if you’re lucky.
- It’s easier to put the design on after the entire base is sewn together instead of doing it in pieces. I tried putting it together with my back and front pieces separate and they ended up uneven in the front at first. It’s more fabric to toss around on the ironing board but you can see the whole thing going on at once.

Hi everyone! As always, thanks for following and reading my tumblr.

I’ve been MIA again because of summer school and I will be until after Yaoi-con weekend (9/12-9/14) because that’s when my finals end. I have a huge backlog of photos and I’ll try to sort/queue them soon, but we’ll see how that goes. I post WIPs sometimes at my instagram (http://instagram.com/hakurei) in case you really want to see what I’m working on between now and then.

Also, I have a buddy now! His name is Bean and he’s a 1 year old Siamese/Calico mix. I call him Beanbear/Beancat/Beancake depending on what I feel like at the time. He’ll be showing up in my photos a lot from now on so please be nice to him!

Posted on Sep 01

sailor fuku tutorial: how to draft the top pattern (temp post)

justacrazedfangirl asked:

I really like your serafuku tutorial! I feel dumb for saying this, but how do I turn the drawings onscreen into an actual drafted pattern in my size? I’ve only worked with store-bought patterns that needed very little adjusting.

(I’m posting this as a text post because it’s super long lol. Sorry!)

Hi! Sorry for the super late response. I’ll be writing another post on this topic sometime with photos, but here’s a text dump w/ some crappy drawings for now. It’s super dense but I hope it helps!

(Also, for anyone who uses this tutorial to draft a pattern, please give me feedback if you find anything confusing or if you see any errors! :) I’m writing this at 3am so there might be mistakes or weird explanations I’m not catching. I’ll take everything into account when I write my actual post!)

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also haha that post came off as being way too serious. Sorry! Now I have a question for anyone who’s following me for the tutorials I post (question at the bottom):

I don’t have a good camera (the only camera I have is the one on my phone) and my sleep schedule is seriously messed up so I’m usually not awake during the times I have good enough lighting to take pictures that aren’t totally awful. (and yes, this is why I haven’t updated my sailor fuku tutorial yet after promising to for months) 

Hand illustrations are way easier for me to make because I can draw at any time, but they might not show what’s going on IRL as well as just taking photos, even if they’ll end up really yellow and grainy. Any input would be appreciated! 

Are the hand illustrations I make for tutorials helpful, or would it be better/more helpful to take actual photos showing the drafting/sewing process?

Posted on Jul 30

Hi everyone! Thanks for reading this blog, whether you’re a follower or not. I’d like to make a small PSA regarding asks since I’ve had a lot of problems with Tumblr’s messaging system and I want to make sure everyone who asks me for help gets the help they want. 

First of all, I made a FAQ page about a month ago which some of you might have noticed from the link in my sidebar. It has more specific information on what I need if you’re sending me a specific question regarding a cosplay you want to make for yourself or a friend. (i.e. “I need help figuring out how much fabric to buy”, “I want help drafting a pattern for my costume”, etc.) Please read it and make sure you’re willing to give me the information I need before sending me a question! 

General questions (i.e. “How would you go about making _____”, “Is it possible to make this sort of pattern modification”, etc.) will always be answered publicly.

I check my dash about once or twice a day. That means sometimes it’ll take me up to 12 or more hours to respond to an ask. If I don’t reply for over a day, it’ll either be because I’m planning to make a tutorial for the topic OR my reply didn’t go through OR because I didn’t get your message in the first place. I will usually make a PSA if I’m planning to make a tutorial. If you think it’s either of the latter two, please resend your message.

If you need urgent cosplay help (like the con’s in a few days) or you don’t want to risk your ask not getting through, go ahead and send me an email at qnngcos[at]gmail[dot]com and I’ll reply ASAP since I check email a lot more often than Tumblr. 

If you get a reply from a Tumblr user ishizan, that’s my blank main that I run this secondary account off of. Apparently mobile has been sending my replies through that account, so I’ve been trying to reply on computer only, but just a heads up if it happens!

Thanks for reading this post if you made it through. I love talking about cosplay and sewing so I always make myself as open as possible to answering questions, but I’ve been having a big problem with people not following through on “urgent” asks and I don’t know if it’s a problem on Tumblr’s end or their end. I thought I’d make my ask policy clear here for anyone who wants to send me a question in the near future.

Posted on Jul 30
Hi! I wanted to know what type of fabric would you recommend using for sewing sailor outfits that are white? I know they will always be a little see-through but what would be the best fabric to use? ^^
Anonymous

Hi anon! I wrote a post on materials here which you’ve probably already seen but which I’ll link anyway just for good measure.

I’ve used twill for all of my white sailor uniforms and they don’t end up being see-through at all, actually! My Mako top is made out of a white twill I ordered from Mood Fabrics and my Ibuki top is made from twill I bought at Jo-Ann and you can see that they’re both totally opaque. If you’re worried about it being too heavy (which it won’t, honestly, I was super comfy wearing Mako in 90 degree weather with 60% humidity during AX) you can also go for poplin which is lighter than twill but has a tighter weave than Kona cotton or broadcloth. I make my blouses out of poplin and have had no problems with transparency there either. 

Though for extra comfort and sweat protection, I wear a cotton tank top underneath all my uniform tops. Mine are the Xhileration brand from Target, they’re super comfy and Target was having a pretty good deal on them last time I was there (2 for $14?). This will help eliminate any transparency issues you might have just in case you get wet or something. Plus it’s common practice in Japan to wear an undershirt with sailor fukus, so if you’re an accuracy nut then you can feel good about having accurate undergarments too!

Hope that answers your question. Good luck making your uniform!

what are you cosplaying for JPOP Summit? (*´・v・)

IDK yet! I think I’ll probably just bring my Mako (KLK) costume since it’s the comfiest one I have and change into normal clothes halfway through the day… I could bring my Micchy costume but I think I might actually get strangled if I do that.

Posted on Jul 13

This post is like a week late but I’m finally done grieving over AX so I can make a post about it now! By the way, I didn’t die at AX.

AX had its good parts and bad parts but this year ended up kind of disappointing for me because I was in line for autographs almost the entire time and didn’t get half the ones I wanted. Oops! Don’t spend an entire con in line unless you have premium (even if you have premium) or else you’ll probably end up regretting it afterwards.

I didn’t take any real photos this year (because I was in line the whole time, oops) so here are some really. really bad Instagram photos of my Mako and Satsuki costumes. I made these the day before the con so they need mega fixing but I’ll hopefully have actual pics of them sometime this summer. (oh, and my eye didn’t implode from having makeup/contacts in!)

The next event I’ll be attending is J-Pop Summit! Come say hi to me if you see me!

You make some of the best cosplays and your sailor fuku tutorial is amazing! I know you are remaking that tutorial, but I have a question that I kinda need quick. How do you set up your measurements for your patterns? Mine ends up being too small
Anonymous

Hi anon! Thanks so much for the compliments.

Are you drafting your own patterns from scratch? I’m guessing the reason your patterns end up being too small is because you’re using your measurements straight off instead of accounting for 2 things: thickness of fabric and ease of movement. The thickness of your fabric will only matter if you’re making something very close fitting with many layers, like a Victorian bodice, so this won’t be a problem with a sailor fuku. 

Ease is added to patterns because you need extra space to be able to move your body naturally without popping the seams. A pattern without ease that is made to your measurements is called a sloper, which you can find instructions for drafting here: http://www.madalynne.com/how-to-draft-a-front-bodice-sloper-update (There are other tutorials on Google but this was the first link I found.) If you’re drafting the entire bodice pattern by yourself then definitely start with this as a guide to figure out where to place everything.

The ease added to a pattern will depend on the look you’re going for, but I would add at least 1” to your bust measurement and 1.5” to your waist measurement for a sailor fuku top because it’s not a super fitted design, then let it in/out as needed. If that doesn’t work out, try picking out a comfortable semi-fitted blouse that you own and measuring how wide it is around the bust and waist points. Then use those measurements to draft your pattern instead of your body measurements. Also, don’t forget to add seam allowance to your patterns! If you don’t, you’re taking in anywhere from 3/4” to 1 1/2” from the circumference and that makes a huge difference. 

I hope that answers your question, but if you’re still confused then please send me another message!